In the houses built before 1960, the interior walls have used a combination of slats and plaster. In many old houses, these walls are still in existence and are in sufficient condition to repaint. However, there are some considerations in preparing a plaster wall to paint. If you want to paint the plaster walls in your house, follow some general guidelines and you will have the smooth walls that complement your decoration.
- Remove old wallpaper before painting a plaster wall. As long as you can paint on the existing painting, the wallpaper, which was very popular in the latter part of the 20th century, will bend and bubble under a layer of paint.
- Prepare the exposed plaster wall for painting by inspecting it by cracks, cracks and loose plaster. Use the chisel to scrape the brittle plaster from the cracks before filling with premixed gypsum plasterboard.
- Use a tape spatula to collect enough mud to fill the crack and smooth the hole. Pull the edge of the spatula along the filled crack to smooth the level of mud with the surface of the wall. If the crack is very large, you may have to repeat the process until it is refilled and smooth.
- Sandpaper with a wall sander equipped with a sanding pad. These sanders fit into the extension posts, making the sanding of the top of the wall easier. Put your hand on the wall after sanding to make sure the wall is very soft. If not, dispose of it again.
- Vacuum dust from the room after sanding and wipe the walls with a cloth to remove dust still clinging to the plaster. Dusting on a wall will create a mottled effect on your paint.
- Apply primer to gypsum brick staining. Because gypsum often has bleached areas on rust points that fade through the mesh area or existing dyeings, a brick primer will seal these areas, preventing them from showing through the final coat of paint.
- Cut into the paint along the edge of the wall where the ceiling is located with an angled brush. Cut with a light touch and a firm hand. Cuts around windows and doors too.
- With a wall rod, start at one corner and apply a smooth coat until you reach the opposite corner. Avoid pressing the roller on the wall to prevent paint from running.
- Repeat the cut in the process and pass the roller once more for a professional finish.
Tips & Warnings
- Painting a light color over a dark color may require multiple layers to completely cover the old paint.
The roses, with their very wavy petals, act as symbols of peace and love. They add beauty to any painting, regardless of whether it is oil, acrylic or watercolor. To paint a rose that looks real, you need to understand its basic shapes and what to consider when you examine a real flower or a picture of it. With this and a little practice, you can paint flawless roses.
- Make a sketch of the shape of your rose with soft lines in pencil to mark the edges of the petals and the outlines of the lights and shadows. Study the flower carefully for a good view of where the curve of the top of the petals casts a shadow underneath it, and how other petals darken the ones beneath it. If the rose is light in color, you can see that the shadows that project to one side of the petal reflect slightly in the lower part. Also mark all these areas.
- Shade the rose like a cylinder. The Artists ‘Network resource, available online, recommends imagining the curve at the top of each petal of a flowering rose as if it were a cylinder to help shade it correctly. The top is the clearest area and the half of the curve is darker, with a small light behind. Practice basic shadier drilling exercises to perfect this technique.
- First paint the lightest color of the rose. If you are working with oil paint instead of watercolors or acrylics, you can simply paint the base color and then add on the highlights and shadows. Mix with the brush. For watercolor or acrylic paint, it starts with the lighter color and then incorporates areas of darker colors.
- Use paint to create contrasting, well-defined lines. The petals of a rose are small enough that transitions from light to darkness are sharp and you can create lines of darkness and light where they meet.
- Check your picture and compare each petal with the real flower or photo. Look for shadows or lights you have not noticed before and add them. Make sure the paint is clear enough to add soft shadows that represent the outlines and shadows of other petals.
- Paint the stems with shades of dark green, unless the rose is placed so that light falls on the stem instead of the flower itself. Think of the stem itself as another cylinder and the leaves underneath the rose as green petals. The leaves should be less translucent than the petals.
Tips & Warnings
- Add more water to your acrylic paint or watercolors to create toned.
Tips for working with oil paints
- The oil give us a high ductility in our designs, allowing us to make corrections and changes.
- These paintings are oily and take a long time to dry, so they are malleable. Many started with oils work have been completed after several years. The paint is dried by the action of oxygen from the outside to the inside, so it takes so long. It can even last for months.
- The oil can be diluted with linseed oil, turpentine, or a medium for oils, depending on the consistency we want to get. Turpentine is the most used.
- To speed up drying, we can use cobalt drier, but in very small quantities.
- Because of its consistency or density, we can work with the oil brush, spatulas and even fingers.
- This painting can be used on wood, plaster, sponge cake and other porous surfaces, although the most common is on canvas, in a frame. The fabric must be prepared before, by printing a plaster base and glue or sizing.
- The elements we use to work with oils should be cleaned with mineral spirits just finish the job.
- The first layer of oil paint should be applied diluted in turpentine or turpentine, and use them more pure as you paint on this base.
- Upon completion of the painting or work, you can apply varnish to protect. Just be careful that it is completely dry in all its layers.
- If in time the paint has been filled with dust, we will remove it with the help of a soft brush with a fat brush.
Painting metal to look old can add charm and elegance to what would otherwise be a simple metal cabinet. Metal lamps, chairs, a bed frame, can all be painted using spray paint to give them an antique look, and spray paint for metals can be purchased in various metallic shades and colors.
How to paint metal so it looks old
- Buy two shades of metal spray paint for your final finish. Be sure to use metal paint so you do not have to buy fixative. Choose the metallic color you want and another one that will serve as a darker tone. If you have doubts about which second tone to use, remember that black is very versatile and can be used to darken any metallic color. Choose matte spray paint if you want a dull and non-glossy effect. Use varnish if you want it to stay shiny.
- Prepare an area to use spray paint. Do it outside your home or somewhere well ventilated. Cover the surface of where you work with newspapers.
- Meticulously clean the metal to be painted. Use a cloth and degreaser to remove dirt and grease.
- Make light strokes with the dark tone so that it penetrates in the cracks, corners and folds of the object that you paint. Give it a thin coat of paint so it will not drip. There is no problem if the painting touches other areas of the object.
- Let the coat of paint dry and then use a 220 grit wet paper and then a 320 grit, also wet. Sand the object so that the dark tone prevails in the cracks and corners and the light tones appear as you move away from these areas.
- Paint light strokes of light tones on flat or raised areas. Use the spray so that it fades to the dark tone.
- Let this layer dry. Sand gently and repeat if necessary. What you’re doing is basically giving it a stained metal look.
Tips & Warnings
- Metal stains and spray patinas can be used for an old appearance. You can also try to smooth the object with a block of wood to give it the appearance of used.
If you are planning to paint a metal chain, you will need to consider two important factors. First, the metal surfaces are nonporous, the paint will not adhere to them until they have been treated with a type specific primer abrasive. In addition, because of the interlocking chains, painting the surface will be under constant pressure because the metal components rub against each other. You will have to select a type of resistant paint or the finish will wear out quickly.
- Put the chain on a concrete surface on the outside.
- Clean the metal chain with water under pressure. Let it dry completely.
- Place it on a high-strength cloth or on a piece of cardboard. Apply a very thin layer of gravure primer to the chain. Its meticulous work to make sure all the metal is covered. Move the chain to expose all surfaces.
- Leave to dry for 1 hour, turn the chain around and apply the primer on the other side. Leave to dry for 4 hours.
- Apply two coats of spray paint to the metal chain in the same way as you did before. Allow 2 hours of drying between layer and layer.
Tips & Warnings
- For added durability, apply a lightweight metal coating to help protect the finish.
- If you want to paint a small chain, like jewelry, do not use engraving primer. Instead, fill a container with 1 cup of metal paint, and dilute with 1 oz. (29,574 cm 3) of mineral spirit. Soak the chain in the paint diluted for 20 minutes. Place the string on paper towels to dry and repeat this process until the string is the desired color.
Melamine is a resin made by the man that, when heated and placed in a mold, becomes a very durable plastic, but still flexible when cooled. It is used for things like countertops, tableware and kitchen. It is mainly used as cover end on furniture or wood fiber products shelves, but tends to be made in a few colors or prints similar to natural wood. Painting melamine is not as easy as painting some other materials because of its very smooth surface. Preparation for successful aerosol painting on melamine is required.
- Clean the surface of the melamine with a damp sponge to remove any dust, dirt and other debris. For any sticky or greasy build up on melamine, add a few drops of liquid soap to a bowl of water and soak the sponge before cleaning. Allow the surface to dry completely.
- Fleet very fine sandpaper (grain 220 to 240) on the melamine to scrape the material and make it easier for the paint to adhere. Remove the dust from the sanding with the damp sponge and let the melamine dry.
- Place plastic sheets on the floor and place two pieces of wood on the top of the plastic. Place the melamine on the pieces of wood and spray an even layer of primer over the top and ends. Allow the primer to dry according to the drying times that appear on the can.
- Lift the piece of melamine and place waxed paper on the wood to prevent melamine from sticking to the wood. Place the primed side of the melamine on the wax paper and the wood, and spray the second side with primer. Let it dry completely.
- Spray the melamine with a uniform layer of enamel paint on the top and ends. Remove any paint that is dripping with a clean, dry cloth to stop the formation of drops on the edges. Let it dry for about an hour and then check carefully to make sure there are no areas with less paint. Apply a second coat if necessary and then let it dry for the interval that appears on the container.
- Put new strips of wax paper and spin the melamine to spray on the second side in the same way. Do not move or melt the melamine for at least 12 hours to allow the paint to heal completely.
You can use a leopard print to decorate just about anything, from clothes to a baby’s room. The leopard print is a fun and daring design that can turn a common piece of furniture or walls into something that exudes style and drama. Although you can cover most surfaces with leopard print fabric, you can also paint these stains yourself. Painting them is also convenient for large areas or you cannot put cloth on top. There are a variety of techniques you can use to add leopard spots to your decor.
Buy the stencil of the repeated pattern of leopard spots at an art and craft store. Uses black or dark brown paints to delineate the stain; Make the border as thick or thin as you want. Use a lighter color, such as light brown or tan, to fill the center of the spots. You can also use a single color for the spots, if you want.
Cut a marine sponge to create leopard spots. Cut the sponge with scissors, giving the desired size to your stains. Soak the sponge in black or brown paint and apply the paint by gently pressing with the sponge. Apply more paint as the sponge needs it. Cut another smaller sea sponge to create centers of leopard spots. Once the paint is dry in the first spots, soak the smallest sponge in the lighter paint and apply it to the centers of the first spots.
Paint the stains freehand, soaking a small brush in black or dark brown paint to create the edge of the spots. Choose a brush size that will achieve the stains you want. For example, if you want small, thin spots, use a small thin brush. Leopard spots are usually imperfect circles; some parts of the circle will protrude more than others, or the circle may resemble a triangle of smoothed corners. Use your imagination to create spots, or look at the photo of a leopard to inspire you. It varies the thickness of the edges of the spots. Use a small paintbrush soaked in lighter color paint to fill the spots.
Painting cement floors is an affordable home improvement that can give an interesting look to a room in a few days. Compared to installing wood floors, tile or carpet, painting a cement floor can be done for a fraction of the cost and requires less work. With proper preparation of cement before painting followed by careful application of all materials, an ordinary cement floor can be transformed into a design element to complement any room.
Thoroughly clean the cement surface. Clean any substance or material that is stuck to the floor with the spatula and sweep the floor completely. The home improvement website recommends removing any oil or grease from the cement by applying cat litter and a hard bristle brush to rub the area with trisodium phosphate (TSP). Rinse the floor and let it dry for several days.
Repair cracks or gaps by applying patches for concrete or using hydraulic cement. Use the brush to apply the adhesive into the crack or hollow before applying the concrete patch mixture to the area, according to Dixieline ProBuild. Use a metal spatula to soften the concrete patch and let it dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Glue the tape to paint the bases around the perimeter of the room to protect it from primary paint, paint and sealant.
Apply the primary paint for cement. Ask a professional in a store for the right type to use on cement floors. Use the roller to apply the paint to the entire surface and let it dry for the time indicated by the manufacturer.
Use a clean roller with a long handle to apply paint to the floor in thin layers. Home Improvement recommends applying two to four layers for durability and a more consistent color, allowing the floor to dry between layers.
Apply the sealant to protect the floor. Apply the roller to the entire surface of the cement floor. Use a mask to avoid inhaling gases. Apply a second layer of sealant after the first one has completely dried.
Tips & Warnings
- Use primary paint and paint in a well-ventilated room to avoid inhaling gases.
- Ask a professional to make sure the paint is compatible with concrete and consider floor additives to make the surface less slippery.
- Use a mixture of concrete patches prepared for minor repairs.
- Use a brush, not the roller, to paint the floor around the bases.
- Use a clean and new roller when applying primary paint, paint and sealant.
- Always start painting at the farthest point of the door and do the work in the direction of the exit to avoid getting trapped in a corner.
One way to refresh the look of an old piece of furniture is to paint it again in a daring color like red. Painting a piece of furniture is a simple task, as long as you know what techniques to use for the particular type of furniture. If the piece is made of wood, plastic or vinyl, you can paint it red without much fuss if you use the right type of paint.
- Prepare a work area by placing newspapers or a plastic tarp over a large area that has a lot of ventilation, such as a garage or patio.
- Prepare wood furniture for painting by sanding with a 200 grit sandpaper. To prepare plastic or vinyl furniture, wipe them with a soft cloth to remove all dust.
- Shake a can of red spray paint that has been formulated specifically for the surface you are painting. Hold the nozzle 6 inches away from the surface and spray in gentle circular motions to apply a uniform coating. Do not apply an excessive amount to get the tone you want; this will only make it drip. Instead, allow the layer to dry completely and then add another layer.
- Let the paint dry. Spray a layer of a clear acrylic sealant on the furniture so that the paint fades and becomes chipped.
Paint the fabric of an old chair, discolored or stained to give it a new look. While you can reupholster the chairs with new fabric, fabric painting existing paint special or a mixture of fabric paint is usually a cheaper alternative and less time consuming. Refreshes the seat of an old chair painted a mural or choosing a colored solid paint to completely change the fabric.
- Clean the seat of the chair to remove any dust or dirt.
- Mix equal quantities of satin latex paint with medium for fabric. Add water that is about one-half the amount of paint.
- Remove the fabric seat or cushion from the seat of the chair to prevent paint from falling on other parts of the chair and moisten the cloth with a water spray.
- Apply three thin layers of paint in the direction of the grain of the fabric or make a design of different colors. Uses the solid paint method for more professional looking results. Rub any balloon with sandpaper in the direction of the grain.
- Let the paint dry completely.
- Mix equal amounts of acrylic paint with medium cloth. Add a few drops of water.
- Paint a thick layer of acrylic paint in the direction of the grain of the fabric, softening it while you work.